Initially tack the posts to jig and then later to each other. Create a natural stone look by chipping edges with a cold chisel. Stack four pieces of drywall and rip all of them in one pass. The pros have all types of special tools for cutting this stuff, but you'll find that carbide tool shown would work just fine. The top ridge has a 45-degree bevel on each top edge. We bought a set of five and spaced them under the wall cabinets and shelves. As soon as you're done applying heat, rub over the entire surface with a small chunk of wood to ensure good adhesion.
To make adjustments, loosen the bolts and screws that hold seat and back supports. Attach top to the ceiling boards after they're installed. Fasten top of the stringers to the deck. Any bumps or blips would be hard (discover here) to sand out. The threaded rod, washers and nuts are available at home centers and hardware stores. We mixed our concrete in a bucket, using a drill and a large paint mixer attachment. The planter box rim consists of four 1 x 3 pieces joined with pocket screws. Center your saw on plywood and mark mounting holes. Align edges with attention for a professional result.
Apply a strip of masking tape above the line. If you have a low spot on any side, you may need extra timbers to level the area. We designed it with simple joints and details so you could assemble it in a morning, even if you don't have any cabinet-building experience. Next, nail apron end pieces to end panels. Cut and install the cove molding starting at one end, then long front piece, then other end. Round sharp timber edges with a small round-over bit. The wood is pressure-treated pine, chosen for its low cost, high strength and longevity. It's easy to unpeel and reuse sheets if you're feeling especially miserly.
The hooks are simple S-hooks, also a hardware item, opened up with a pair of pliers. Secure the handle bar by driving screws through each handle into the end of rail. Measure height of the chessboard at several points, take the smallest height, and rip lighter lumber species to that size. There's no space between blade and fence for a push stick, and on some table saws you have to remove blade guard. We have a table saw with a good dust collection system, so it wasn't too dusty. The auxiliary fence provides a positive stop at the jig centerline and keeps the jig from tipping during cut.
Cut and nail the base molding to wrap around face frame and partition sides. When you saw the notch, rip to waste side of pencil line, leaving the line on the board. Rail-and-stile bits are sold in sets, and raised-panel bits are sold individually. Notice that the plywood front of the partition becomes the background for the face frame. To make this as easy as possible, we've included a sliding rear door held in place with small hook-and-eye latches. The supports would create a base for installing the caster wheels, so that you can move the table easily. In the end, your tools will have a new home, and you'll know where to find them when next job comes along.
It's easy to take off too much wood in some places. Cut an opening into front roof panel for access through the dormer. These clamps apply pressure horizontally as well as vertically, so joint edges are wedged tightly together and stay level. Then get up early on Saturday and apply another coat or two of finish and you'll be ready to assemble and install the shelves on Sunday. Steel scrapers work great-for first few minutes. How a board is craft from the log also affects how much it moves. Drill a pencil-size hole a few inches from end of the board.
For complicated assemblies, give yourself more working time by using slow-setting wood glue. To rip stopped grooves in legs, first mark exact position of the bit on router table fence. Tamp a bit of soil around the timbers to hold them in place.